Is white denim really denim?

Is white denim really denim?

Strictly speaking, denim is a warp-faced twill (typically 3×1) with an indigo-dyed warp and an undyed weft.

So, no, “white denim” isn’t actually denim. If you want in on the hot debate of what does and doesn’t qualify as denim, we’ve got a deep dive coming that already has us apparel nerds fired up. Stay tuned.

Here’s the thing: “denim” (fabric) is not the same as “jeans” (garment), and the definition of jeans is far looser. So while “white denim” is an oxymoron, white jeans are real. The word jeans usually conjures five-pocket denim pants, but jeans are simply trousers in any sturdy fabric. There isn’t even a fabric weight or garment construction requirement to the term. Your silk pajama bottoms are not jeans, obviously, but the category gets blurry fast.

A nitpicky note: jeans are pants, so don’t call your denim jacket a “jean jacket.”

A brief history of white jean trends

Okay, let’s talk white jeans. According to Levi Strauss & Co., denim pants (then called “waist overalls”) were banned in some U.S. schools in the 1950s because blue jeans were tied to rebellion. Students got around the rules by bleaching their jeans to make them white. In response, Levi’s introduced White Levi’s in the early 1960s. That launch was less about fashion and more about letting kids wear comfortable pants to class, no bathtub bleach required.

Around the same time, Mod fashion was taking Britain by storm. Mods were rebellious in their own way, but decidedly not “rocker.” When Levi’s and Lee brought slim, white jeans to the U.K., Mods adopted them into their clean, modern wardrobe. This was arguably the first moment white jeans were worn as a deliberate fashion statement rather than a workaround.

Since the 1960s, white jeans have been both loved and loathed. Fashion writers keep debating classy vs. trashy and practical vs. impractical.

They had a moment in 1980s punk fashion. They resurfaced during the 2000s jegging era. “Winter whites” have their years. They are forever a summer White Party staple.

So…should you wear them?

Yes. If you read our article on how to build a jacket collection, you know we keep white on hand.  But don’t be sloppy.

Two rules to follow:

1. Be prepared for the clean-up

2. Be mindful of what’s underneath. 

because they show everything, spills and undergarments alike. 

Tips: 

1. Natural and Ecru shades are more forgiving than optic white. 

2. Heavier fabrics and looser silhouettes are better at hiding what’s going on underneath. 

3. Loose indigo on raw and dark denim will transfer, so only wear white with washed down denim, or more white. In your closet, organize garments dark-to-light, with washed shades in the middle to keep light fabrics clean. 

With these guidelines in mind, you have our full support to wear white. Below are some of our favorite white jeans and jackets, ready for you to mingle with your (washed) denim collection.